Bumpers

When I first started some informal field work with Lumi, I got her some 2" white bumpers, and added my own throw ropes cut from nylon cord purchased at the hardware store. We still have some of them, which I use with Lumi and Laddie when we go out hiking or to a pond for fun retrieves. I call them our "puppy bumpers".

Later, when we started to focus on field training, I got a bunch of 3" white and 3" orange bumpers. I bought an inexpensive brand that was harder than the 2" puppy bumpers. I vaguely noticed that Lumi and Laddie always preferred the puppy bumpers, but I never thought much about it.

This makes me wonder exactly how stupid I must be. Why in the world would I have my dogs retrieving hard bumpers, day in and day out, trying my best to build high reinforcement value for retrieving, trying my best to maximize their daily and long-term motivation for retrieving, when somewhere inside I knew that they preferred soft bumpers?

After three years of training them with hard bumpers, it finally dawned on me one day that I should replace them with soft bumpers. I've discarded the hard bumpers, along with a variety of colors of canvas bumpers I had also picked up along the way. We now train exclusively with soft bumpers, the kind with valves at the top.

I don't really understand what the valves are for, so I pay no attention to them. The valves have a removable part that has fallen out of some of our bumpers. I don't see it as making any difference, though a more experienced trainer might.

I purchased throwing ropes for all our bumpers, even though the brand I purchased came with ropes. Despite being knotted, those thin ropes easily came out thru the eyelets in the bumpers, while the ones I purchased don't have that problem.

I also attached streamers to the bumpers I use for marks, but not to the bumpers I use for blinds. I believe that streamers improve a dog's marking on marks that are thrown with them, and also on the dog's long-term marking ability. I have no science to back me up, but anecdotally, both of my dogs are excellent markers. By the way, you have to crimp the hook that you use for attaching the streamer to the bumper with pliers, or the streamers fall off.

Even though I don't put streamers on the bumpers I use for blinds, I do put throw ropes on them. It makes them easier to carry, and it makes them easier to throw as happy bumpers.

As for size and color, I purchased a dozen 3" white bumpers for marks, and a dozen 2" orange bumpers for blinds. I also purchased half a dozen 3" black bumpers for marks, because I was told that in some regions, field trainers prefer black bumpers for marks over white ones. However, except for occasional experiments, I never use the black ones, and I've noticed that at the training groups in our region, nearly everyone uses white bumpers for marks when we're not using birds. I suspect it has to do with what kind of backdrops are most probable in a particular region.

If I ever get another puppy, I'll also get some more 2" white bumpers, like our old puppy bumpers, only I'll add streamers and use them for early puppy marks.

Soft bumpers are available in other color options besides white, orange, and black, but I don't consider them a good choice. For example, bumpers that are half black and half white are only half as visible in flight no matter what the backdrop. And colors other than orange are difficult to see in a dog's mouth when she's out on a long blind. I remember a friend whistling a dog in on a blind, since the dog had reached the right area and it looked from the distance as though the dog had found the dark-colored bumper and picked it up, but when the dog got close, my friend could see that the dog wasn't carrying a bumper after all.

My dogs and I are very happy with our new bumpers. I'm just sorry that it took me so long to switch to the softer ones.

[Note: The terms "bumper" and "dummy" are synonymous. Historically, it seems the old name was "bumper" and the newer name is "dummy". Although some of the product companies use the term "dummy", I've noticed that virtually all trainers use the term "bumper".]

Practicing with Singles versus Multiples

[From a post in our training journal blog, "Field Training Test Series"]

In today's practice, I ran Laddie on John's set-up as three singles, as did Patty with some of her young dogs. For her more advanced dogs, Patty ran the set-up as a double and a single, or as a delayed triple.

I might mention that running a dog on singles in a multiple-gun set-up is not a strategy limited to young dogs. I know of several trainers who believe that once a dog "understands" what a multiple is, the dog should be run primarily on singles.

However, Patty does not follow that practice, and I'm under the impression that Alice does not, either.

I think the primary advantage of running singles is that it strengthens the dog's marking, which will be the primary consideration in scoring.

On the other hand, even if the dog has a good memory, there's more of a challenge to running multiples than simple memory. For example, when multiple marks are down, they can act as diversions for one another, which can be especially challenging if the go-bird is longer than one of more of the memory-birds, or if a flyer is used as a memory-bird while the g0-bird is a dead bird. As another example, the dog may see one picture when a multiple is thrown, but then if one or more guns retire, the dog sees an entirely different picture when she's lining up to run the memory-birds after she's returned with the go-bird.

I suppose that here, as in other areas of dog training, maintaining a balance is best. I guess my goal with Laddie will be plenty of singles, balanced by plenty of multiples.

The De-flaring Drill

[This is an advanced drill, intended for a dog with considerable experience running single and multiple marks.]

Sometimes the judges for an advanced event, and training day "judges" preparing for such events, set up a retrieve that requires the dog to run close to the gun station for a mark that was retrieved earlier in order to take a straight line to a longer mark.

One example of such a set-up is a reverse hip-pocket double, also known as "off the heels". Another example is an indent triple in which one of the outside marks is tight to the center mark. Typically both marks have been thrown in the same direction, so that the dog is running "behind" the shorter gun. Another possibility is a blind whose line runs behind a gunner, or even in front of the gunner in a configuration called "under the arc", since the line to the blind runs under the arc of the gunner's throw.

Many dogs tend to "flare" or "push off" the short gun when running a line that passes close to that station. That is, the dog veers away from the gunner, then attempts to veer back on target once past the gunner.

For a mark that is not too difficult for the dog, that strategy is often successful, which unfortunately tends to make it self-reinforcing for the dog. Meanwhile, the trainer might not realize that a problem is developing.

However, letting a dog push off has the same objection that applies to any factor that can cause the dog to veer off a direct line to the fall: On a difficult mark, the dog may not be able to find her way back on target by herself, and may then require a long hunt, may need to be handled, or may even need to be picked up.

I have never seen a traditional trainer run his dog on extensive drills to teach the dog not to push off, and perhaps it is not necessary to do much teaching for dogs being trained with an ecollar. However, for the 2Q dog, breaking down the skill enables the dog to learn the concept without the need for aversives.

Here is a drill I call the De-flaring Drill, for training the dog not to flare around short guns. Other skills, such as practice with retired guns and practice with out-of-order triples, are incorporated in order to fully develop the dog's understanding not to flare around short guns.

Step 1. Singles

Using a flat field with low cover, set up two singles, one about 50 yards from the start line (SL), the other 100 yards or more from the SL. If you're going to use one thrower and one Bumper Boy (BB), use the BB at the short gun, and place a chair with a white coat behind the BB in neutral position (facing the SL).

It's not practical to run this drill with two BBs, because a BB is not consistent enough in throwing distance for the long gun.

You'll practice this and all steps from both sides in different sessions. For this description, we'll have the dog run on the right side of the short gun.

Therefore, have both gunners throw right to left. Use orange tape or something similar to mark the exact placement where the long gunner's throw is to land. The line from the SL to the tape should pass within a few feet to the right of the short gunner's chair, which is facing the SL.

The long gunner will need several white bumpers (or birds, if desired). He may wish to practice his throws to make sure he can land his throws right on the tape. The short gun will only be making one throw for Step 1.

For the first set of retrieves, the handler and dog set up halfway between the SL and the short gun, on the same line as if running from the SL. The long thrower should stand on the tape and make sure that the dog will be taking a line right next to the short gun's chair when the dog runs to the long mark.

Now run the set-up as two singles, starting with the short gun. The only purpose of this throw is to make it clear to the dog that next, she'll be running behind the short gun. It's unnecessary for her to run the short retrieve in Step 1 again.

Once the dog has picked up the short mark, have her run the long mark. The purpose of this mark is not merely for the dog to have a successful retrieve, not even for her to home straight in on the mark for the last fifty yards. Instead, the purpose of this mark is for the dog to take a straight line past the short gun, without pushing off. If she runs it correctly without veering either before or after the short gun, she'll run a perfect line to the fall.

The handler should not run this drill expecting such a perfect line. Rather, he should be expecting the dog to flare, and if so, when the dog does, the handler calls, "No, here," and brings the dog back to the handler without allowing the dog to complete the retrieve. Call "No, here" as soon as the dog begins to veer, since it is difficult and unpleasant to stop the dog once she's past the short gun, and also because "No, here" acts as a No Reward Marker (NRM) and should therefore occur at the moment of the infraction in order for the dog to understand why she's being called back.

Once the dog is back at the handler after "No, here," line the dog up and run her again. Again be prepared to stop her and bring her back. However, don't keep repeating failure. If necessary, have the long gun throw another bumper before sending the dog again, and also if necessary, move even closer to the tape that marks where the long throw falls.

Once the dog runs the mark correctly, the handler and dog reposition closer to the SL, the long gun re-throws the mark, and the dog runs the mark as before. Again the handler needs to be prepared to stop the dog and bring her back if she veers off line.

Finally, the handler and dog run the long mark from the original SL, with the handler again calling "No, here," and re-running if necessary. Again, don't practice failure. If the dog isn't successful after two tries at a particular distance, move closer to the tape and have the mark re-thrown as necessary, until the dog is able to run the mark correctly.

Practice Step 1 in as many sessions as are needed, eventually running the first pair of singles at the original SL, until the dog is able to run the long retrieve from the original SL without flaring on the first run of the session. Move the set-up to different locations and different orientations, and vary the distances of the marks somewhat. Practice both sides.

Step 2. Reverse hip-pocket double

Steps 2 thru 9 continue to use a flat field with low cover and similar distances.

Once the dog is able to run Step 1 correctly from the original SL on the first run of the set-up with the throws in either direction, the same set-up can be run as a reverse hip-pocket double, or "off the heels". That is, as the dog waits at the SL, first the long gun throws, then the short gun. The dog picks up the short mark, then the long one. As in Step 1, the handler should consider it likely that the dog will attempt to push off the short gun when retrieving the long mark as the memory-bird. Use the same strategies as before to help the dog learn to run the line without flaring.

Practice Step 2 over a number of sessions until the dog can run the double without flaring the first run of the session. Practice both sides.

Step 3. Retire the short gun

Step 3 is like Step 2, but for Step 3, have the short gun use a large, camouflage umbrella to hide behind as the dog is running back from picking up the short mark. If using a BB for the short gun, place an umbrella in front of the BB and chair. This is not ideal for a Field Trial dog, since the dog is not able to see the short gun while setting up to run the double, but dogs can't see the gunners in Master Hunt Tests, either, so it's not an unreasonable skill.

Step 4. Retire the long gun

For Step 4, have the long gun use an umbrella to hide behind as the dog is running back from picking up the short mark. Although this might be a difficult set-up for a dog that had not been thru earlier steps, by now the dog is learning to use the short gun (or the umbrella) as a sort of "gun sight" to remember the line to the long mark. Eventually, such a mark is actually easier for the dog than one with a wider angle from the shorter mark.

Step 5. Indent triple

For Step 5, add another long mark on the other side of the short gun, at a wide angle to the short mark. Throw the new long mark first, then the original long mark, and finally the short mark. Send the dog to the tight original long mark right after the short mark go-bird, which is the sequence the dog has been practicing with her doubles. Then the dog can pick up the new long mark.

Step 6. Out-of-order indent triple

For Step 6, use the same configuration as for Step 5, but throw the original, tight long mark first, then the short mark, then the new long mark. Send the dog to the last bird down first, then the short bird, then the original long mark. If the dog hasn't practiced out-of-order triples, she may try to run the short mark first. If so, call her back with "No, here," line her up on the long go-bird, and send her again. If necessary, move up to make it easier.

Even if the dog runs the correct direction on the go-bird, she might not have gotten a good look at the throw, since she was expecting to be sent after the short throw, may have lost focus, and may require a long hunt or help from thrower or handler. With additional practice on Step 6 in a variety of locations, she'll learn to stay focused on each throw until actually sent.

Step 7. Retire the short gun

For Step 7, again throw an out-of-order indent triple, but this time have the short gun retire (hide behind an umbrella) while the dog is returning from the go-bird. This is considered a difficult configuration, but given the dog's earlier experience with the De-flaring Drill, the dog should have less difficulty with this set-up than a dog who has not been thru this training.

Step 8. Retire the tight long gun

Step 8 is another out-of-order indent triple, but this time the tight long gun retires while the dog is returning from the go-bird.

Step 9. Retire two and then all three guns

Step 9 practices out-of-order indent triples with any two, and finally all three, guns retired. To retire the go-bird, the handler throws a short fourth "mark" to the side after the triple has been thrown, and while the dog is picking up that short throw, the guns can retire.

Step 10. Increase factors

Once the dog is successful on all preceding steps on a flat field in low cover, begin to practice various steps with additional factors: hills, throws into cover, terrain changes, strips of high cover, water, a cross wind, mounds, longer distances, and so forth. In an event, one or more of the throws may be a flyers, so that, too, needs to be practiced.

During Step 10, it is neither necessary nor desirable that set-ups keep getting more and more difficult from day to day, though over time you will continue to advance the dog. But in the process, keep the dog's confidence and motivation up by using easier set-ups for some sessions. Keep the dog's success rate -- the ability to nail every mark without help -- in the range of 70-85%.